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Air
Movement Capacity
Fan exhaust capacity is rated in litres per second (L/s) or cubic feet
per minute (cfm). A normal bathroom needs a good-quality fan that
draws 25 L/s (50 cfm). A poor-quality fan won't exhaust enough air and
will be too noisy for regular use. Large bathrooms, or those with
bigger fixtures, such as spas, need larger fans. Place a bathroom fan
as close as possible to the source of the moisture or odour.
Building
Code Requirements
(SUMMARISED)
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“…Buildings shall have a means of
collecting or otherwise removing: cooking fumes and odours; steam
from laundering, utensil washing, bathing and showering; odours from
sanitary and waste storage spaces; poisonous or flammable fumes &
gases…”
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where fans are used to remove
moisture and other contaminants from kitchens, bathrooms and
laundries in housing, the exhaust air must be ducted to the outside,
whether or not the fan is a requirement of the Building Code.
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For internal rooms without natural
ventilation, mechanical ventilation (extraction fans) must be
installed to extract the air at given rates. Residential kitchens;
50 l/s, bathrooms and toilets: 25l/s, laundries 20l/s.”
These are minimum Building Code
requirements. Generally, this would not fulfill your expectations of
moisture and odour removal. We recommend that you consider the
following industry recommendations when choosing your fan.
Industry Recommendations
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The ventilation industry has a
“Recommended Air-Changes per Hour” solution. i.e. An air flow rate
sufficient to remove/replace the total volume of air in a given room
a specified number of times each hour. Obviously fans will not
necessarily be left running for an hour – a fact which is taken into
consideration in the formula.
Recommendations For Air Changes Per
Hour – Guide only individual requirements may vary
|
Application Description |
Air Changes Per Hour |
|
Bathrooms |
5-8 |
|
Kitchens (Private) |
10-15 |
|
Laundries |
10-30 |
|
Toilets (Domestic) |
2-3 |
Working out the right fan for the job:
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Calculate the room volume in
metres (LxWxH)
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Multiply the room volume by the
recommended air changes per hour for that room.
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The sum is the total air changes
required in cubic metres per hour
Select a fan with the closest
performance to this figure.
Noise Levels
In order to be effective, a bathroom fan needs to be used and that
usually won't happen if it's too noisy. For that reason, the second
consideration in the selection of your fan should be the amount of
noise it makes while in operation.
In addition to the l/s rating
discussed above, ventilation fans also carry a noise rating, listed in
dBA. Several things affect how loud or quite a fan is - its air-moving
capacity, the type of fan blade assembly being used, how much
insulation is placed in the fan housing, and where the fan is located.
As you probably would expect, the quieter the fan is, the more you can
expect to pay for it. Fans are a long-term investment, and the quieter
unit is well worth the extra initial cost.
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Installation and
Ducting
Most fans are designed for
direct ceiling mounting within the bathroom itself. There are also
fans designed to mount in the wall, and fans, which mount in a
remote location - up in the attic, for example -- to further cut
down on noise.
There are two major types of extractor fans – axial and centrifugal.
The difference between both types is power and method of
installation.
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INSTALLATION DO’S AND DON’TS
Fans, when connected to ducting,
operate best when the ducting is installed so that any restriction
to the flow of air are minimized. Fans can be mounted anywhere along
the dust system but care should be taken as not to restrict the
airflow.
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Maximise the distance between the
fan and inlet/outlet grilles to reduce noise at grilles.
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Don’t leave ducting slack, extend
flexible ducting fully, cut to correct length, remove bends where
possible. Support the duct so that is its straight.
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Ducting should be the same size or
larger than the fan spigot to optimize airflow. Don’t squeeze
ducting into the fan spigot as this restricts the airflow.
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